Russell

Chantelle and I have just returned from a pleasant mini-break at Russell. Formerly known as Korororeka by Maori (literally "sweet penguin"), then nick-named "the hell-hole of the Pacific" because of the debauchery caused by drunken uncouth European whalers who used it as a base in the 1800's. It has now become a very genteel sea-side resort where the loudest calls at night belong to kiwi. Somewhere along the way most of the Maoris seem to have moved out. We visited Waitangi - the birth-place of the NZ nation - for the first time. Very civilised in a European way. A large expanse of grass with a little museum explaining how a treaty was signed there between the British Crown and some of the Northern Maori Chiefs back in 1840. By all accounts it was a hastily cobbled together document with 2 versions. One was written in English. This was translated hurriedly overnight by a local missionary into Maori. The ensuing discrepancies have led to all manner of argument. There is a huge legal business that exists to try to interpret modern questions of ownership and seeks to redress past injustices. As an Englishman who has lived with concepts of private property and a deeply injust class sytem all my life, it is ... stimulating? ... surprising? ... to move to a country where colonialism is still being challenged generations after the main land-grab took place. I suppose that Waitangi being central to NZ culture is a testament to the staying power of Maori. I do wonder where things will be in another generation if the injustices can be re-dressed and society can move on. Anyway back to the pics. We were taken with the massive boat beautifully carved from several kauri trees. Chantelle is pictured inside one of the 3 trees that were used. The waka can seat about 80 paddlers. Alongside the colonial residence of James Busby was an ornately carved marae.